Gucci, for Sabato De Sarno, only the essential at Milan Fashion Week
Sabato De Sarno's debut runway show for Gucci is a blend of sexiness, sharp minimalism, and basics. It all starts with the essentials.
At Milan Fashion Week in September 2023, the Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 runway show is among the most anticipated events. A long teaser that painted the city of Milan in dark red foreshadowed Sabato De Sarno's debut on September 22nd. In the front row, you could also find Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative director of Valentino who nurtured Sabato De Sarno and is now ready for this moment. The excitement is palpable for the designer, as well as for everyone in the fashion industry. All eyes are on Gucci, awaiting the much-talked-about new chapter with a fresh image and collection. It all began with a cleaned-up Instagram account, an iconic model from the '90s—Daria Werbowy, who isn't walking the runway but is in the front row like Vittoria Ceretti—and a touch of dark red. A color that is closely tied to the new concept of luxury: minimal, sharp, and undeniably sexy.
The reference to Tom Ford is woven between the lines, and Sabato De Sarno himself mentions it in the jackets and hemlines. In an interview with Vogue America, he recalls his first Gucci purchase, a red velvet jacket designed by the American stylist who led the house from 1994 to 2004. But is that all? No. The Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 runway show effectively changes the rules at home: it's anything but opulent and redundant. It's oversized in the jackets but streamlined in the silhouette, basic in the color palette and vibrant in the accents of color. The collection's essential pieces, playing on wardrobe classics—a version 3.0 of the capsule wardrobe—stand in contrast to the reimagined tradition of accessories: platform loafers, jewelry inspired by the archives, and the soft version of the Jackie 1961 bag.
There's a lot of Sabato De Sarno in this collection: his history and his enduring love for fashion. Gucci, Ancora.
