Mary Leest and the Future of Fashion: Between Heritage and New Visions
Timeless minimalism, statement red looks, and the return of the classics: Mary Leest shares her FW25 Milan Fashion Week experience and the future trends
The Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2025 has made its mark: between bold silhouettes, couture details, and an ever-growing dialogue between tradition and innovation, the future of fashion is taking shape with bold nuances. Who better than Mary Leest, style icon and authoritative voice in the fashion system, to interpret these trends? From her passion for timeless elegance to her strategic selection of looks for fashion week, Mary takes us behind the scenes of her vision. With timeless looks, sustainability, and new talents, here’s how tomorrow's fashion takes shape through her eyes.
Minimalism or Maximalism? Both.
There is no single way to experience fashion, and Mary Leest knows this well. “Maximalism continues to dominate, but minimalism remains an essential pillar for those who seek timeless, effortless elegance,” she says. The winning formula for FW25? Clean lines, fine fabrics, and a touch of discreet luxury. “Minimal doesn’t mean boring: it means sophisticated and versatile,” she adds. Among the trends that captivated her, the return of fur: “Warm, luxurious, incredibly chic. Whether eco-friendly or high-quality vintage, furs are destined to be the stars. They elevate any look, giving it an air of sophisticated nonchalance.”
Mary draws inspiration from timeless style icons: "My aesthetic is influenced by great figures of the past, like Audrey Hepburn and, especially, Lady Diana. They didn’t chase fashion; they defined it. Their way of dressing was a perfect balance between femininity and empowerment. I believe this is true style: something that doesn’t follow a season but remains eternal."
The Power of Red
Mary Leest has a secret for not going unnoticed: “When I want to make a statement, I choose red.” A powerful color that can transform even the simplest look into a style statement. “I’m not a fan of bright shades, but red is the exception: with matching lipstick, it has a magnetic effect.” A concept we saw on the FW25 runways, where red emerged as the queen hue, from structured coats to sculptural dresses.
Fashion and sustainability: beyond the trend
For Mary, sustainability is not just a trend but a rooted principle. “My grandmother taught me the value of clothes passed down through generations, repurposing them to give them new life.” This approach translates today into choosing iconic pieces meant to last, and using rental platforms for special occasions. “Buy less, but better, is key. I rely on timeless pieces, like a black cashmere turtleneck: it’s my comfort piece, always perfect. Elegant, essential, and incredibly versatile, it works for any occasion, from business meetings to airport outfits.”
Behind the scenes of runway looks
Creating an outfit for an event is not a casual gesture, but the result of careful selection. “For fashion weeks, I choose ten looks from the collections of the previous year’s runway shows and then leave space for collaboration with the brands.” Even for red carpets, the process is meticulous: “I review up to three seasons of haute couture to find the perfect dress. Vogue Runway is my virtual wardrobe. I create a PDF with 60-100 looks, then narrow it down to 15-20 before consulting with the brands to see what is available, what I can borrow, or even have made to measure.” The result? Looks studied in detail, reflecting her personal style and a perfect balance between heritage and innovation.
Emerging designers and the future of fashion
While many young designers focus on conceptual art, Mary believes in the value of balance: “A collection must be innovative but also wearable. Fashion doesn’t just live on the runways; it has to adapt to real life, and there’s so much to learn from the first great masters of fashion.” Among the talents that impressed her, Michael Stewart of Standing Ground: “His sculpted silhouettes are a dream: he creates dresses that enhance the body without sacrificing creativity. His draping is extraordinary: he takes the female form and sculpts it impeccably. He proves that art and wearability can coexist perfectly.”
Influencers or the New Generation of celebrities?
The line between influencers and celebrities is becoming increasingly blurred. “Influencers are the new stars, but with a more direct connection to the audience,” says Mary. Whereas the myth once belonged to rockstars or Hollywood actresses, today, the new icons are on social media. “The important thing is to maintain authenticity and consistency: the audience can tell when someone is just chasing fame. We’ve entered an era where influencers are the new superstars, but it’s the way we engage with our audience that makes the difference.”
Mary's lesson
Behind Mary Leest’s success is a simple philosophy: never give up. “You can knock on the same door for years without an answer, until one day it will open.” For those dreaming of a career in the fashion system, the advice is clear: “Be professional, strategic, and above all, kind. Connections matter, but what matters more is how you relate to others.” A mantra that, combined with talent and determination, can turn a dream into reality.
