What we saw on the runway for fall winter 2020. Milan extends their fashion week to give us a glimpse of what's to come in menswear for next fall winter.
The fact that Italy's Camera della Moda extended their men's Milan Fashion Week goes to show how much hype there is around men's fashion and accessories. With the increasing convergence of genders and non-binary dressing, women are looking at what the other half are wearing. So without further ado, let's look at the IT Italian brands on TheDoubleF.
To mark their 25th-anniversary fashion show, Dsquared2 showed off their greatest hits with a collection comprised of their signature elements: shearling, cowboy boots and Canadian nuances. Take note of slack shapes, oversized outerwear, lots of layers and most importantly do not forget about denim! Crinkled, washed, doubled, I could go on; Dsquared2 truly are the king of denim.
A collection that spoke to different generations. Salvatore Ferragamo's fall winter 2020 collection showed us exactly why we respect them as a fashion brand: an impeccable ability to combine Italian sophistication with modernity. What caught our eye? Long duster coats, knee-length pinstripe shorts, leather trousers in various autumnal shades. Not to mention angular outerwear and delicate but by no means un-masculine floral prints in khaki green and red.
Dolce&Gabbana aimed for the new generation (in fact they had 40 Tik Tokers invited to their fashion week show to represent the digital generation) by promoting the old virtues of Italy and its artisanal traditions to a younger audience. Such as the age-old tradition of sheepherding in the mountains of Sicily, articulated in the knitwear pieces. Elsewhere, the collection had elements of British heritage with the voluminous silhouettes and herringbone-like alpaca coats.
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan
Techno and fashion came together in the opening set of Marcelo Burlon County of Milan. The Patagonian shapes of Burlon’s logo were jammed together to create eye-catching patterns in houndstooth and psychedelic motifs that looked like optical illusions. Equally, there was an eclectic mix of styles, from bombers to long line puffer coats. Equally important was the color focus on classic blue and leafy green. Lastly, performative party pieces were equally present in the form of Swarovski etched jackets and shirts.
The runway, inspired by Giorgio de Chirico’s metaphysical paintings, set the scene for Miuccia Prada's homage to the everyday hero in her fall winter menswear collection at fashion week. In other words, how our everyday man dresses. The collection included the various types of professional dress. For example, young office workers in their three-piece suits or tailored separates with portfolios or large handbags, and alternating jacket dimensions. Then to rural workers in mid-calf rain boots with oversized jackets. Similarly, there was the freelancer who plays with patterns and graphics. As a matter of fact, Miuccia reminded us that there is value in everyday life and work through a demonstration of creativity mixed with technicalities.
Last, but by no means least. Alessandro Michele’s menswear collection for fall winter 2020 was his way of telling men to be more romantic. Michele rewrote masculine codes, as has been the case with previous collections. In fact, the brand’s socially-conscious and gender-nonbinary outlook are values that have doubled Gucci’s influence and therefore their profitability. In this collection, we return to boyhood with schoolboy shorts and pulled-ups socks, gingham, torn and baggy jeans, baby doll shirts and corduroy trousers. Furthermore, all the eccentricity that we love and that has become ever more approachable was present in the slogan t-shirts that read “Impatience” and “Impotence”, as well as "Liberty" on floral handbags. Let’s hope it is enough to maintain Gucci’s allure.
Of course, other than the biggest names in Italian fashion, well-known British brands presented their new collections. Alexander McQueen, Woolrich, and A-Cold-Wall* reinterpreted the FW20 season with innovative points of view and contemporary design.